Day 55 to day 59

Day 55 September 22 Monday
After breakfast went to a local shop and had the oil and filter changed. They use 20/60 weight oil here because of the heat. Went back to the caravan park and had a snack, got my computer, water and camera and took the bus into town. Lot better than trying to find a place to park. Went to the bank and got some more cash. May be a while before I get to a big enough city with my bank in it. Found an internet café and updated my web site and sent out a few emails. Walked around town a bit and saw some of the local WWII stuff. The Japanese bombed Darwin and destroyed much of it to wipe out an American base here. There are lots of WWII airfields along the road A1 coming up from Katherine. All dirt of course. Australia put lots of effort to defend itself and found out after the war that Japan had no intention of invading.

Day 56 September 23 Tuesday
Got petrol and almost daily bag of ice and headed off to Kakadu NP. Along the way stopped at Fogg Dam conservation area.

Saw some new birds (huge egret like bird and small bird that walked on lily pads) and huge water lilies (lotus). Went for a short walk and saw some more ibis and white egrets. Then off to Kakadu. Stopped for the night at Aurora Kakadu Park. There was a nice billibong only five minutes away. Lots of egrets and ducks. Went swimming several times in the pool. Heard Alice Springs had a really bad storm a few days ago.

Day 57 September 24 Wednesday
Got up early to go to Mamukala Wetlands. Saw my first wild dingo but he did not stop for a picture. The The birds here were amazing. Wowwwwwww. There were millions of birds. No lie. Egrets, geese, pelicans, jabiru, plume ducks, etc. Found out from a English couple, who I keep running into along the way, that a ranger talk was to be held at 9 so waited. A two hour hike around a 3.5 km path. She talked about the local plants and animals and birds. Really terrific. She said there were at least 1.6 million magpie geese here. Stopped at the visitor center in Jabiru and then went to the local store and bought a few items then headed for the caravan park. And the pool. Took three dips in the afternoon as it was hot and muggy.

Day 58 September 25 Thursday
Decided to go to the Ubirr area of the park, also called east alligator area. There is a river crossing here called Cahills crossing which goes across the East Alligator river into Arnhem land which is a huge tract here in NT. A permit is needed to go there and 4wd. Saw my first wild salt water crocodile there. A truck started to cross the causeway and the croc’ started to go for it then changed its mind and disappeared. Went next to the Ubirr aboriginal art area and listened to a very informative ranger talk at the “main gallery“. Only three people there at 9am. Walked around more sites and the lookout. I sure enjoyed the area. Went for a short walk along the river but it was getting hot. Headed south towards some more art areas and Anbangabanga billibong. Walked to the billibond and decided it was too hot to do more so went further south to Yellow River area and got a site for the night. Pool time again. Used their BBQ to make fried pots with carrots and onion and sausages. Yumm.

Day 59 September 26 Friday
Left the campground and drove 2km to the Yellow Waters billibong and took a short walk. Saw some cattle and a few horses far away. After doing some reading in the evening, they were not cattle but water buffalo which I thought were black but they can be brown. Rats missed a picture. I went back north to Nourlangie and saw more aboriginal art. This area was among big rocks at the base of the escarpment that makes up Arnhem land. Some of these were a lot better than those at Ubirr. Caught part of talks by a tour group and then a range talk. Stopped by Anbankabanka billibong to see if there were any new birds or critters. Headed south to go to Gunlum campground and waterfall and pool but the 37 km road in was so corrugated I quit fairly soon and turned around. Spent the night at Pine Creek, and old gold mining town just off the main highway.

Day 48 to 54

Day 48 Monday September 15
Left the caravan park and headed north on 87 towards Darwin. Backtracking and just hours of driving through the same stuff. Stopped for the night at Wycliffe Well in space 21. Did not feel like driving further to a free wayside park. Hot. They had an aviary with parrots. One, a galah, came scooting over on his perch to the wire cage and wanted his neck scratched. He closed his eyes and waited. I scratched his neck and I almost think he purred. Cute.

Day 49 Tuesday September 16
Long hot and humid day heading north towards Darwin. I am no longer backtracking to Tennant Creek where I had turned south to Alice Springs. Spent the night at Daly Waters. An old

town /roadhouse. Only $5 per night. Lots of people here. Talked to some nice people heading south from Darwin. They said it is even hotter and more humid there. Rainy season they said may start early. Hope not. Got lots to see on the north end. Turns out a traveling band was there and played and sang songs until about 10. Too hot to go to sleep so I got a beer, read my book and listened.

Day 50 Wednesday September 17
Left Daly Waters and stopped by the Stuart Tree were an early explorer was suppose to have carved his initials. Could not find them. Headed north on hwy 1. Some people camping next to me at Daly Waters said I should stop at Mataranka Hot Sprinks in Elsey National Park. Ahhhh. They were warm but a lot cooler than the air so they were splendid. Could have spent all day in them. I then headed north to Katharine to Nitmiluk NP, aka Katharine Gorge. Stayed in the park camp ground and signed up for a two hour cruise for two gorges. There are suppose to be 13. Went for a nice swim in the pool, ahhh again. Warm but cooler than the air.

Day 51 Thursday September 18
It was a warm and humid night. I saw a young couple trying to push start their van. I used my jumper cables to get them started. Apparently they had the van plugged in to power but it was

not on so their fridge and stuff sucked their battery dry. Went on a two hour tour, a boat ride, up the river. Had to switch boats where the river was blocked because of low water. Saw no crocs or alligators. Very pretty on the river with high walls on both sides. At the end of the first boat ride there were some aboriginal rock art which is suppose to be about 10,000 years old. Decided to spend another day here. Sit around, play in the pool, finish reading my book. A kick back day sort of. Also, since there is a lot of water here, washed the van. It looks great. As I was writing this in the dark a wallaby came up to within five feet of me and had a baby in its pouch. How cute.

Day 52 Friday September 19
Left the campground and headed north from Katherine to Edith Falls area of Nitmiluk NP. Nice big pool. Went for a short hike to the upper pool where there were a bunch of people swimming. From now on I will wear my swimming suit to these places. It looked so inviting. On my way to Litchfield NP. Drove in to Florence Falls camp area and set up. Hiked over to the lookout for the falls. My luck a big bus load of tourists arrived. Headed down into the valley to the waterfall pool. Went to take a picture before swimming an found my water bottle leaked on to my camera. It did not work. Hopefully drying overnight will make it work. Not too likely with the high humidity. Went for a nice swim in the pool. Amazing how nice the water is. Not cold but just right for the heat and humidity.

Day 53 Saturday September 20
Whewww. Camera worked. Went to Florence falls early to take a few pictures.

On the way up the 135 steps to the camp a wallaby was on the steps heading down with a baby

in its pouch. They were nice enough to let me take their picture. Went to the termite mounds for a ranger talk about them. Two different kinds in the area, one makes cathedral mounds the other orients them sort of north and south. After the talk went to table top swamp and saw some egrets and cockatoos. Then on to Tolmer falls. No swimming only looking. Headed then to Wangi falls, the most popular places in the park Very pretty with two falls coming down into one pool. Went for several swims as it was hot and humid. Got some thunderstorm rain showers. They are starting in preparation of the WET season which normally does not get started until the middle of October. Hope it does not come early. Spending the night here in Litchfield NP again, this time here at Wangi Falls. There are deer flies that look like the ones at home and bite just the same way.

Day 54 Sunday September 21
Left Wangi Falls campground and Litchfield NP and headed north to Darwin. Stopped at Berry Creek Nature Park for a swim. It is a series of big pools in a river. Sign says that they try to make sure no salties are present but freshwater crocodiles may be present and not to harass them. Very refreshing but being that it was Sunday lots of Darwinites were coming to swim and picnic. Lots were there already. Stopped at Shady Glen Caravan park space 28 took a shower and did some laundry. Found out were to get oil and filter changed so went to auto parts store and will bring my own stuff. Went for a drive into town to get the lay of the land. Will go there tomorrow after oil and filter change. Less humid and not as hot here on the coast as inland.

Day 43 to 47

Day 43 September 10 Wednesday.
Made it to Ayers Rock (Uluru) in the early afternoon. Got a spot at the local, on only resort at the park. Had a nice dinner then went to the park to wait for the sunset. Well it was cloudy and everyone thought nothing would happen. But just as the sun was setting it shown on the rock for a few minutes and everyone was happy. Lots of photo were taken. Drove back to camp in the dark. First time driving in the dark here that I remember. It was a very beautiful sight to see.

Day 44 September 11 Thursday
Got up early to go see the sunrise on Uluru. It was not as nice as the sunset. It turns out the sunrise side (East) is very sacred so pictures can be for personal use only. No one can publish them under penalty of Northern Territory law. So to honor their aboriginal wishes you will not see any sunrise pictures. Also, they ask people not to climb the rock so I did not do that either. Besides it was getting hot already at 9 am not unlike Arizona. Instead I walked all around Ayers Rock, 9.5 km, almost 6 miles. There are a large number of sites that the visitors were asked not to take pictures because they were sacred. While the sunset pictures make the rock look like a relatively smooth thing, it is not. It has many canyons, caves, water holes, etc. It is a very interesting place. The aboriginal community has a nice visitor center trying to describe their culture and why the place is so important to them. Interesting is that not one aboriginal person could be seen working there. After lunch went to Kata Tjuta, aka The Olgas, and went on a short 2km walk. Getting really hot, probably above 30 C, 90 F. They guide book said they were 36

sandstone mounds but they were conglomerate as some of the rocks were basketball size. Was going to head out and go towards Kings Canyon but decided to spend the night. The swimming pool with cold water. Ahhh, when right in with no problem. Went to bed early.

Day 45 September 12 Friday
Left Ayres Rock campground and headed west on the Lassiter Hihgway. Saw a small herd of wild horses and took their picture. Continued on to hwy3 and headed to Watarrka NP, aks, Kings

Canyon. Went for a walk in the canyon. Started up the rim walk which is 9.5k and decided it was already too hot. Did the valley walk of 1.2k instead and was mostly in the shade along the river bottom. No water of course. Decided to head south again on highway 3 to go back to Alice Springs and the McDonnell Range. Spent the night at a wayside park 60 km from the Lassiter Highway.

Day 46 September 13 Saturday
Headed west again on the Lassiter Highway. Saw my first feral camels today. I think there were about 5 in the group. I heard estimates of 800,000 in Australia. Also heard about feral cats, yes domestic cats, that are a real problem too. Some apparently are just about as big as dingos. They have tried to poison them but it is not working very well. Got to Alice Springs and headed west on Larapinta way to the Western McDonnell Range. Spent the night in a NP campground called Ellery Creek Big Hole. A huge pond between big ridges. Very pretty. Big bad wind in the afternoon, gusting really hard from about 4 to 6. Whew.

Day 47 September 14 Sunday
Left Ellery Creek Big Hole campground. No wind. Left early and headed to Ormiston Gorge to go on a 3-4 hour hike before it got too hot. Beautiful hike especially through the gorge with it high walls, water hole and rocks. I was hot and tired when I got back to the car. I had lunch at the Ochre Pits where ochre of many different colors were found and used by the aborigines for body paint and cave painting. It was also traded all over Australia. I can see why as there were lots of different colors and plenty of it. Ochre is mainly kaolin clay colored with iron oxide. I then went to Stanley Chasm which is similar to Ellery Creek. I saw a rock wallaby come and drink from a hole he had dug in the sand. Cool. It did not seem afraid. Spend the night at Stuarts Caravan Park to have a nice shower, do laundry and get my pictures ready to send on the internet. Took space A-5. Saw some ring necked parrots and rock pigeons here.

Day 35 to Day 42

Day 35 September 2 Tuesday
Decided to take a tour with a aborigine to some art sites and to learn more about the aboriginal thinking. Left the park at 7:45 and got back at 1:45. Very interesting. The art works were mainly done with ochre. The art shows the aboriginal thoughts on life and death and the good and bad in between. Willie Gordon was his name, his father aborigine and his mom Irish but raised with the aborigines. Some of the art was new, put there by his grandfather in the 1920-30. Some he does not know the age of some of it. He said aborigines believe we all come from “The Light” and when we die we go back to “The Light.” The rock art works shows all this. He also said all this “dreamtime” stuff was make up for the tourists. Drove back to Mount Molloy for the night at the free car park

Day 36 September 3 Wednesday
After leaving Mt. Molloy, headed north to Mossman Gorge section of Daintree NP. Very different looking rainforest than what I saw before. Saw a forest wallaby too, cool. Pictures of a rainforest do not do it justice since walking in one is a multi-sensory experience. You need your smell and hearing. Had to cross the Daintree River to get to Cape Tribulation. Section of Daintree NP. Walked a 2.5 km boardwalk through the mangroves, put my feet in the sand at Thorton and Myall beaches. No crocs were to be seen.

Myall beach and cape Tribulation

Good rainstorm for a bit. Headed to Port Douglass to go to the bank to get enough cash to head west. Very very upscale place. Stopped for the night at Palm Cove RV park, sponsored by the city. Right on the beach. Ahhhh. Nice cool breeze and low humidity.

Day 37 September 4 Thursday
Left Palm Cove and headed towards Cairns only 30 km away. The Cook highway was jammed with commuters so decided to skip the city and head over the dividing range to Kuranda and then Meereba where I took hwy 1 south. Stayed on hwy 1 south and were A7 took off and

headed south is Undara Volcanic NP. It is famous for big lava tubes. Took a two hour tour and the tubes were large but not very long but interesting. Spent the night there in the resort. While sitting here writing a big chunk of a tree fell not more than 100 meters away scaring a grey

Bottle tree (bilboa)kangaroo. In August after getting the car, I have averaged 150 miles per day and spent $A88 per day for everything. This should go down a bit as do not have to stay in pay campgrounds to stay warm.

Day 38 September 5 Friday
Headed out on highway 1, called the Savannah highway at this point, and drove to a small town called Mt. Surprise. Went 35 km one way on a dirt road to go to a topaz field. A person I talked to said there were lots of topaz up to 1 to 2 inches across. So off I went about a quarter of a mile and wham, a stream about 50 feet across and looked deep. As I was debating a bit, a Toyota land cruiser went through up over its axles and bounced it’s way across. Rats, no topaz for me, maybe another time. Drove the 35 km back and headed west again on hwy 1. I decided to reluctantly bypass Agate creek where spectacular agates come from since the road said 4 wheel drive. Drove onto Normanton, close to the gulf of Carpentaria, a distance of about 400 km. Real outback, went through 3 very small towns, got passed by three vehicles and saw about 30 from the other direction. Only grass and small trees and dead ‘roos. Stayed in a park with a nice pool, ahhhh after a hot day.

This is a typical outback road. Even the main road is dirt with one paved lane down the center. Scarry when a road train comes, that is a truck with three trailers. Sometimes there is more small shrubs around too. There can be stretches of 50 km between paved sections. The paved sections seem ramdom.

Day 39 September 6 Saturday
Headed south from Normanton on hwy 83 to Cloncurry which is on A6 highway. The distance was 370 km with only a roadhouse half way. Lots of nothing, not even a house to be seen. Whew. Real outback. At Cloncurry headed west and the road is now A2. Spent the night at a wayside park about 60 km west from Cloncurry.

These are termite mounds. The outside is dirt so they have colors of the local dirt. Some are grey, others red and some tan. Inside is hollow where the nest is. They have tunnels to out at night to get food. The largest here is about 4 feet tall. The aborigines cut a hole in the big ones and build a fire inside and it stays hot for two days. These mounds are all over Australia, sometimes only a few and others by the thousands.

Day 40 September 7 Sunday (Australia Father’s Day)
Left the wayside park and headed west on A2 leaving Queensland and heading into the Northern Territory. Wanted to stop at Mt. Isa for food but everything is closed on Sunday. Spent the night a wayside park. Met a very nice couple who told me about some things to see on my journey. The flies were terrible tonight. I used the bug net Helen had gotten for me. Bug spray is useless. Hope it is not this bad all the rest of the way.

Day 41 September 8 Monday
Continued west on A2 to Three Way, where A2 meets the road to Alice Springs south and Darwin to the north. Stopped in Tennant Creek for some food and internet at the library. Somehow the cable would not work in my computer. Drove south as far as the Devil’s Marbles Conservation Area. Lots of big roundish granite boulders. Very pretty at sunset. Ranger talk with aboriginal “caretaker” about the area and the aboriginal culture. More later.

I call this one sitting dog.

Day 42 September 9 Tuesday
Headed south to Alice Springs and got there about 2. Went to the grocery store for a few items and the information center. Library internet down for guests. Spent the night at G’day Mate Caravan park space 135. Warm.